Suzanne TRACHT of Jar has opened a second restaurant, and it's not exactly just down the street. Called Tracht's, it's in the Renaissance Long Beach Hotel, in a town that seems to be largely off the radar for L.A. chefs until now. Part of the hotel's $11-million renovation, Tracht's has a great spot at the corner of Pine Avenue and Ocean Boulevard.
The dining room is
très chic, with lots of dark wood, white tablecloths and giant ruched orange fabric lampshades hovering overhead. In the bar, which serves food until midnight most nights and until 1 a.m. on weekends, water slithers down a glass wall, and more than a thousand bottles of wine reside in a glassed-in wine cabinet.
The most inviting aspect of Tracht's, other than the elegant chophouse fare, is the outdoor patio, which wraps around one corner of the building and looks out on Ocean Boulevard toward the Pacific. Though buildings block much of the water view, tables under handsome cantilevered umbrellas still can revel in that authentically salty breeze. Glass windscreens and a radiant heated floor keep you comfy enough to concentrate on the food. There's also a jolly fire pit with seating for those who want to cozy up with a martini or a glass of wine.
Tracht's menu hews very closely to Jar's, presenting a neat lineup of the Los Angeles restaurant's best dishes. The crab deviled eggs make a delightful little appetizer to share, hard-boiled eggs with a spicy stuffing topped with a little fresh crabmeat. There are Hama Hama oysters on the half shell served with a black pepper ponzu and a terrific take on Caesar salad made with crisp, slightly bitter red endive instead of the usual romaine leaves. I'm a big fan of Tracht's deconstructed lobster cocktail with chunks of beautifully cooked lobster and shredded green mango drenched in lime. If you want to go lighter, order the pretty butter lettuce salad with breakfast radishes and a shower of fresh herbs.
Over our first courses, we watch the people parade by on Ocean Boulevard. It's nothing like the crowd streaming by farther north on Santa Monica's Ocean Avenue, and that's the beauty: Long Beach has its own relaxed vibe.
With Tracht's in residence, you can enjoy the scene while digging into a remarkably flavorful veal porterhouse or savoring Jar's signature pot roast with carrots and caramelized onions.
Char siu pork chop is a thick one, heavily brined and basted with a sweet marinade that chars up beautifully. It may not be to everyone's taste, but if you favor teriyaki and love sweet Chinese dishes, this is your baby.
Steak lovers get their choice of Kansas City strip, skirt steak, rib-eye or filet. But there are also some braised options, such as a fine coq au vin or braised lamb shank perfumed with coriander and star anise. Most of the main courses come with an onion roasted in its skin until it's soft and velvety and stuffed with a pesto.
Tracht has always turned out appealing side dishes. Onion rings here are so crisp and delicious that when you finish one order, you want to ask for another. Sautéed pea shoots with garlic and hot pepper are wonderful. And as for duck fried rice, it's sheer genius to put this on a chophouse menu, because it's such a fine accompaniment to most of the meats and even fish.
For dessert, the banana cream pie has the same luscious filling of softly whipped cream and bananas as it does at Jar — and the same hard, cookie-like crust.
Obviously, Tracht can't be in two places at once, so when she's in L.A. at her primary restaurant, chef de cuisine Jessica Alexander, former sous-chef at Studio in Laguna Beach's Montage resort, is in charge.
Based on a single visit a few days after the restaurant opened on the propitious date of 7/7/07, Alexander seems to have the same meticulous attention to detail as Tracht does.
Source :
http://www.calendarlive.com/dining/mood/cl-wk-critic19jul19,0,2373063.story
